Thanks to the kindness and generosity of Ms. Jacquie, I am now in possession of a mysterious Jacques Fath suit which probably dates to the early or middle 1950s. I make this estimate because Fath went out of business in ’57 and didn’t have a US-based boutique until after WWII.
As you can see, the silhouette is not in strict conformity with the New Look figure. The jacket is, in fact, quite blousy, and the skirt is essentially a narrow A-line. It is missing a belt which would have nipped it in at the waist a bit. If I had a narrow black belt, I would style it with a belt and see how the silhouette is affected, but alas I do not. I will be visiting a thrift shop soon, so I will look around for an approximately thumb-width belt for it.
A 3/4 side view confirms the loose-fit of the jacket. When the front is hooked up, I can slide it off the dummy without unhooking anything. The waist of the skirt fits me, so it is approximately a modern US size 6.
The back of the jacket sports three pleats; one on each side at the waistline, and a long pleat down center back which is tacked at shoulderblade level and waist level.
One of the really fascinating aspects of this jacket is that is essentially cut in three pieces (not counting the two-piece collar and facing) and given shape with pleats and darts. There are underarm gussets to allow for range of motion in the raglan sleeves.
Additional ease is provided along the back at the shoulder level by three tiny darts:
The waist definition is provided entirely via small, tacked down pleats: four in front and four in back.
I think the jacket looks kind of cute with the collar turned up.
When the collar is laying flat it reminds me of the suit jackets ladies wore just after World War I.
If anyone happens past who knows more about this particular style, please feel free to speak up.